With so many new advances in clinical skin care, the ones that excite me the most are products that encourage your own body to work hard for great skin.
What is great skin?
Skin that is clear with little to no blemishes
Skin that has normal thickness
Skin with a slight translucent ‘glowing’ quality to it
Clear of uneven pigmentation
Line free in the young and line appropriate in older people
good texture with minimal enlarged pores
So how would you achieve this?
A good way to think of skin care is to consider how you would target all the different layers of skin.
For the top layer (epidermis), peels are brilliants, microdermabrasion is okay and home care exfoliants are good as a top-up. This gets a big tick in getting your body to work for it!
Then the middle layer (dermis) and deeper layers, this is where a lot of wear and tear occurs and can give long lasting results. This is also where most of my excitement lies as one key component of good quality, thick skin is plenty of collagen. Top notch quality skin care products can deliver this, albeit to a lesser degree compared to other modalities. Our skin care of choice at the clinic is Intraceuticals (excellent for plumping and hydration), Neostrata (acid based, powerful and hugely effective skincare which complements our other skincare), organic non-allergenic Pinks Boutique and we will shortly be introducing Skinceuticals.
3 different modalities come to mind- the first is causing ‘controlled injury’ to the skin eg microneedling and radiofrequency. In microneedling, minute pin prick wounds are made in the skin which forces the skin to send all their healing soldiers to repair. This results in plumper skin with better texture, smaller pores and more even colour. In radiofrequency (RF), a form of energy is transmitted which then gets converted to heat energy to around 60-62C in the deeper layers (with our machine in any case). This causes collagen bundling which appears as immediate tightening visible straight away. The body then repairs itself over the course of 3-4 months. Results are excellent here. Then some clever people decided to combine the two- so there is RF microneedling which I consider to be the star treatment for facial rejuvenation with results constantly improving up to 9 months later. Our machine is the Secret RF.
The second is drinking the stuff eg collagen in medi-grade products like Aneva Derma (also brilliant for joint health) and Skinade- quality differs a lot for oral collagen supplements but these two products have good science behind them and evidence that they make a difference.
The third is a not-so-new concept in fillers, but surprisingly, one that has been slow to catch on- I suspect due to lack of patient education. The more well-known product here is Sculptra- which works great but is more cumbersome. The newer product, Ellanse, which works just as well, if not better, has both the qualities of a filler (immediate results visible) and the longevity of Sculptra- where desired. It has different products that have different longevity. The best part for me is that while the filler part of Ellanse decreases (just like with any filler), your own body’s response to it, ie the collagen stimulation of your own tissue, continues along. By the end of the year- for the 1 year product- you will have a plumper appearance which is completely natural looking, as its your own collagen. The comments that you’ll likely get is that you look ‘refreshed and rested’ as opposed to ‘who’s your doctor?’
So, very exciting developments in the industry and its great to know that its possible to look natural and more age-appropriate- which is a trend that we're seeing more and more of; and one that is my personal preference and what I would encourage anyone to aspire to.